Oxford Shoes vs. Derby Shoes: The Stylish Differences You Need to Know

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Every closet has classic shoe styles: stilettoes, ballet flats, and oxford shoes. While ‘oxford shoes ’ may sound like a style you’d wear to school, these shoes add a vintage touch to any outfit.

Once a men’s staple, Oxford shoes are now a popular choice for women as fashion embraces unisex trends. They add a chic finish to any outfit.

oxford shoes add a chic vintage touch to any outfitOxford shoes add a chic vintage touch to any outfit (Credit: Michael.Thompson / Shutterstock)

Oxford shoes are an alternative to derby shoes, brogues, and ballet flats. You can style them with jeans or bend gender norms with tights and dresses.

We’re deep-diving into the world of oxford shoes for women. Are oxford shoes the same as derby shoes and brogues? How can you style oxford shoes for women? Read on to find out how!

What Defines Oxford Shoes?

Oxford shoes are instantly recognizable for their ‘closed lacing’ shoelace eyelets set under the vamps. These shoes are traditionally understated and suitable for formal wear.

Most oxford shoes for women are made in neutral colors, such as black and brown. The more mainstream style means designers have become more creative with color schemes. Look out for quirky metallics, contrasting prints, and pastels.

Aside from the usual neutrals, oxford shoes now come in an array of colors, prints, and materialsAside from the usual neutrals, oxford shoes now come in an array of colors, prints, and materials

Oxford shoes are traditionally made using patent or calf leather, whether genuine or faux. You can also occasionally find oxford shoes in canvas and suede fabrics.

It’s worth noting that oxford shoes are called different names worldwide. The French refer to oxford shoes as ‘Richelieu’, while some Americans call them ‘Bal-type’ shoes.

Oxford Shoes vs. Derby Shoes: What’s the Difference?

Derby shoes, also known as bluchers, are often confused with Oxford shoes. It’s not unusual for “oxford” to be a blanket term for any lace-up formal shoe in the U.S.

FeatureOxford ShoesDerby Shoes
Lacing SystemClosed lacing – facings stitched under the vampOpen lacing – facings stitched on top of the vamp
FitSnug fit across the instepRoomier fit, better for high insteps or orthotics
Toe ShapePointed or chiselled for a sleek lookRounded toe for a more relaxed appearance
FormalityHighly formal, suited for formal occasionsSmart-casual, less formal than Oxfords
PurposeProfessional settings, black-tie events, and weddingsEveryday wear, smart-casual events, and countryside outings
VersatilityLimited to formal wearHighly versatile – suits formal and casual outfits

The main difference between oxford and derby shoes is the lacing. Oxford shoes have a closed lacing, while derby shoes have open lacing. The closed lacing makes oxford shoes more formal than their derby counterparts.

Oxford shoes feature closed lacing for a sleek, formal look, while Derby shoes have open lacing for a more relaxed styleOxford shoes feature closed lacing for a sleek, formal look, while Derby shoes have open lacing for a more relaxed style

Derby shoes have evolved from oxford shoes and have a more laid-back look than oxford shoes. You’ll typically find them in suede instead of leather. Derby shoes can also give you more freedom of movement than oxford shoes.

Oxford Shoes vs. Brogues: Spot the Subtle Details

Another style often mistaken for oxford shoes is brogues. Brogues come in various styles, distinguished primarily by the design of the toe cap. Common types include quarter brogues, semi-brogues, full brogues, and longwing brogues.

FeatureOxford ShoesBrogues
DefinitionCharacterized by closed lacing with eyelets under the vampShoes with decorative perforations (broguing) on leather uppers
Lacing SystemClosed lacing system for a sleek silhouetteCan have closed (Oxford) or open (Derby) lacing
PerforationsTypically no perforations, but can have them (e.g., Oxford brogue)Defined by perforations, ranging from quarter to full brogue
FormalityHighly formal, ideal for professional or black-tie eventsLess formal, leaning towards smart-casual styles
PurposePerfect for formal settings like weddings, boardrooms, and eventsVersatile: suitable for casual, semi-formal, and country occasions
VersatilityLimited to formal wear unless styled carefullyHighly adaptable; works well in both formal and casual settings

Brogues often have the same physical characteristics as Oxford shoes. The difference is that brogue shoes have patterned hole detailing across the uppers.

This pattern originated in Scotland and Ireland, where brogues in the countryside were worn as outdoor shoes.

Oxford shoes have a clean, sleek design, while brogues feature decorative perforations for added style and detailOxford shoes have a clean, sleek design, while brogues feature decorative perforations for added style and detail

The uppers give brogue shoes their distinctive style, while silhouettes can range from high heels to sneakers and boots. Most brogues feature low heels, similar to those of Oxford shoes.

While an oxford shoe can be a brogue, they have subtle differences you want to be aware of. Remember that multiple-piece, sturdy leather uppers with decorative perforations characterize brogues. Recent brogues trace their roots to a rudimentary shoe originating in Ireland and constructed using untanned hide.

Further Reading: Elevate Your Style with More Oxford Shoe Inspiration

For readers eager to explore more about Oxford shoes and how to incorporate them into your wardrobe, check out these helpful articles for further inspiration: